The Reminder

Just in case I was in any doubt, Paris Fashion Week has reminded me of my love for the work of Olivier Theyskens. If I had to choose any designer in the world to create my ultimate dream dress, my answer would be Theyskens - and Theyskens during his reign at Rochas to be exact. For seven seasons at Rochas, he produced the most beautiful, romantic collections with a dark edge - the very essence of a gothic fairytale - using elements that I would definitely look for if I was spending thousands on a dress - Chantilly lace, Edwardian silhouettes, couture techniques - I could go on. I loved it all - every single collection. Since his move to Nina Ricci, my love affair has cooled somewhat - none of his collections have blown me away - too many slip dresses and wispy feathered details for my liking. I have been waiting for something really special and after his dance-inspired S/S 09 show in Paris, I think I'm still waiting - but there were definitely hints of the Theyskens trademarks of old that I so admired at Rochas - Edwardiana, dresses cut to reveal the structure underneath, muted colours - and the results were often beautiful. The love affair continues.